UTTARA KANNADA: A COASTAL GEM

In dried out paddy fields, sheets are spread on three sides of an imaginary square, and striking string marionettes sculpted in light-weight wood take centre-stage as an audience watches, enchanted.

Elaborately costumed, colourfully made-up, adorned with shimmering fabrics, brilliant jewellery, and ornaments made from wood, mirror work, and coloured stone, and wearing high headdresses, the remarkably mobile puppets appear to leap to life in the agile hands of the master puppeteers.

Drawing on a repertoire of classical literary texts, and stories from ancient epic poems and mythology, the puppets perform prodigious jumps, show off tricks, dance, ride horses, fly, and joust with swords or spears on stage – battle scenes, gods and goddesses, and the supernatural are favourite themes. The captivating show is set to melodious music by a solo singer/story-teller and accompanying musicians.

Sheer magic from dusk to dawn.

Rich, vibrant, distinct, and rare, this is the yakshagana gombeyata – the celebrated traditional string puppet theatre tradition that emerged in the coastal regions of the state of Karnataka in south-west India. It is based on the traditional form yakshagana or ‘the song of the yaksha’ (nature spirits) that combines rhythm, dance, drama, music, and the spoken word.

Today, yakshagana gombeyata is world-famous and has won several international awards, thanks not only to troupes but also traditional families who have passed on their art and techniques down the generations.

The Karavali or coastal region of Karnataka is home to the Uttara Kannada (also known as North Canara) district, lying along India’s south-western coast. Beautiful, quaint, surprising, and delightful, Uttara Kannada is truly a travel gem since many of its destinations are largely unexplored or little explored.

Its superb location, between the splendid Arabian Sea to the west and the magnificent Western Ghats (or Sahyadri) mountains rising in the east, and a shared border with the state of Goa, makes Uttara Kannada one of the most spectacular places in India. And because the sea is close to the Western Ghats, the coast enjoys phenomenal rains during the monsoon – lending it extraordinary allure.

The charming landscape is literally awash with mighty rushing rivers that plunge to form majestic waterfalls – the most famous of which are the Jog Falls, Apsara Konda Falls, Unchalli Falls, Magod Falls, Shivaganga Falls, Lalguli Falls, and Sathodi Falls. The enchanting River Kali, central to Uttara Kannada, is the lifeline of its people. Lush rainforests in the hills are home to some fantastic species of flora, wildlife, and birdlife. Stunning rocky beaches harbour exquisite rich marine life.

We bring you glimpses.

APSARA KONDA FALLS

Near the bewitching Apsara Konda Falls is the Apsara Konda Beach, one of the finest to watch sunsets from. Virtually empty, the beach gives you the perfect perch from which to enjoy views of the sea.

DANDELI WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

Dandeli, a part of the Western Ghats, is located on the banks of the River Kali and is surrounded by an abundance of forest and mineral wealth.

Dandeli is home to what is said to be the oldest reserve in India (declared in 1956), the Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary; and along with the neighbouring Anshi National Park, forms the Anshi Dandeli Tiger Reserve.

The area is the natural habitat of wildlife such as tigers, leopards, black panthers, elephants, bison, bears, deer, monkeys, and reptiles, including exotic snakes and river crocodiles. This bird watcher’s paradise has nearly 300 species of birds including cormorants, kingfishers, egrets etc.

Dandeli offers a range of thrilling outdoor activities such as jungle Jeep safaris, hiking, trekking, whitewater rafting, coracle rides, kayaking, and rappelling.

Go down the Kali to a spot called Kerwad just outside the town. Apparently, crocodiles congregate here to eat the pulp waste released into the waters of the Kali by the West Coast Paper Mill!

KAVALA CAVES

Located around 25 km from Dandeli, the Kavala Caves are prehistoric limestone caves that are hidden deep inside a reserve forest, at the end of a dirt trail.

There’s an interesting formation of stalagmite that you can see here. At points, the caves are so narrow that one has to crawl slowly to go through.

For passionate explorers and avid trekkers, this is a wonderful spot.

SYKE’S POINT

Syke’s Point, situated near the Kavala Caves, offers breathtaking views of lush green hills, deep valleys, and the River Nagajhari as it flows and merges into the Kali.

And at sunset, the sight of birds flying across the valley as they return to their nests is simply marvellous.

MOLANGI

Located 11 km from Dandeli, Molangi lies in the middle of dense forests with the River Kali flowing between enormous rocky cliffs and slopes.

Great for hiking and camping in the forest.

SHIROLI PEAK

Shiroli Peak is located inside the forests on the sides of an abandoned mine and can be reached by the forest department Jeeps.

The highest point in the Uttara Kannada region, the Peak rewards you with beautiful sunset views of the Sahyadris.

A trip to Shiroli is usually a part of the jungle safari and needs special permission from the Forest Range Office to visit.

ANSHI NATIONAL PARK

The Anshi National Park (1987) is set amidst the magnificent mountains of the Western Ghats.

Rich in flora and fauna, the Park lies some 60 km from Karwar. Spanning an area of 340 sq. km, the Park is believed to be India’s most endangered wildlife park.

Anshi is a treat for both birders and animal lovers. It boasts nearly 200 rare species of birds. And the perfect time to spot them is in the spring, when the trees are in full bloom.

Anshi also has the rare distinction of being the only park in Asia where the Black Panther is found naturally, and offers the maximum sightings of the elusive cat.

The rain and deciduous forests here hide an array of flora and fauna; and are home to animals such as the elephant, tiger, deer, wild boar, Malabar Civet, Malabar Giant Squirrel, Indian bison, pangolin, sloth, leopard etc. as well as several reptile species.

You can trek or go on safaris inside the Park, of course accompanied by a Forest Guard (from the Forest Range office here) at all times.

The Barpali View Point offers fabulous views of the Arabian Sea, the dense forests, and Kaiga, the site of an atomic plant.

ATTIVERI BIRD SANCTUARY

The Attiveri Bird Sanctuary is home to several species of birds.

The migratory birds here are from countries across Central Asia, North Africa, and Europe.

The best time to visit the Attiveri Bird Sanctuary is from November to March.

MURUDESHWAR

Murudeshwar is bounded by the rolling hills of the Western Ghats and the beautiful Arabian Sea, and although primarily a pilgrim centre, is a favourite with picnickers for its temple, restaurants, guest houses, and resorts.

The theme park (which you can’t miss!) built on the Kandukagiri Hill is based on popular characters from Indian mythology.

It is the 123-feet-high statue of Siva though, that commands all attention. This colossal tribute to the lord was sculpted over two years and sits in majestic glory on the hilltop.

You can get a breathtaking view of the sea from here, the turquoise waters bordered by some of the cleanest sands you have seen.

The Murudeshwar Beach is great to splash around in or enjoy water sports.

DEVBAGH ISLAND

The pretty island is home to the Devbagh Beach Resort and offers watersports such as kayaking and banana boat rides.

On a pleasant day, you can even go snorkelling in the clear waters of the Lady Beach.

Spotting dolphins is also extremely popular – motorboats take tourists out to the sea so they catch a glimpse of these playful creatures.

Avid birders should not forget to bring their binoculars either!

KURUMGAD ISLAND

A 25-minute boat ride is all it takes to reach this isolated paradise.

At the eastern end of the Island is a small cave great for swimming; and trained professionals conduct water sports activities.

GOKARNA

Gokarna’s unique geography owes itself to the rocky cliffs and the high promontories interspersed between beautiful beaches.

Gokarna is most famous for the Om Beach, but no less charming are the Kudle, Half Moon, and Paradise beaches.

The Mahabaleshwara Temple in Gokarna town is worth a visit.

Some of the residences in the town, with teak pillars and spacious verandahs, are over 100 years old.

OM BEACH

One of the five beaches in Gokarna, the Om Beach is around six km from Gokarna town along a muddy hill.

Named for the auspicious symbol of OM – representative of the sacred sound and spiritual icon in Hinduism, as well as in Buddhism, Jainism, and Sikhism – that it is naturally shaped like, the beach comprises two semi-circular coves that form part of the ‘Om’ symbol.

KUMTA

Just 37 km away from Gokarna lies another excellent beach destination, Kumta.

The Alvekodi-Dhareshwar, Vannalli, Kudla, and Mangodlu beaches are worth visiting.

Dotted with temples, the town also has a Panchakarma therapy centre if you would like to indulge in some rejuvenating wellness.

KARWAR

The charming seaside town rewards visitors with a host of attractions, including its lovely coast and superb seafood cuisines.

The Rabindranath Tagore Beach is the heart of Karwar’s social life.

Also worth seeing are the Naval Museum, and some of the town’s atmospheric old temples.

Early morning, take a refreshing walk across the Kali River Bridge built at the confluence of the River and the Arabian Sea.

You can see the Sadashivgad Fort on the Sadashivgad Hill at the northern end of the Bridge.

Historically significant and picturesque, the Fort is a popular tourist destination.

The Baithkola Beach on the northern outskirts of Karwar is one of the most beautiful natural beaches on this coast and has spectacular views out to the sea.

BANAVASI

Discover the rustic charms of Karnataka’s Uttara Kannada district in the sleepy temple town of Banavasi.

Believed to be the first capital of ancient Karnataka ruled by the Kadamba Dynasty from the fourth century CE, Banavasi surprises with hidden gems from its glorious history.

Charming Hindu temples, and Buddhist and Jain shrines dot the landscape blessed with great natural beauty, especially during the monsoon, with emerald paddy fields, the River Varada flowing on three sides, and tumbling waterfalls.

Hospitable people and delicious food infuse life into this ancient town.

Plantations around Banavasi produce juicy pineapples – don’t miss the chance to try them!

The lovely Madhukeshwara Temple here is a treasure trove of intricately carved and some beautifully inscribed sculptures, among other objects.

A major centre of art and culture, Banavasi celebrates Kadambotsava, an annual three-day festival during which musicians and folk artists congregate to commemorate the centuries-old history of the town.

SYNTHERI ROCK

Over 300 feet tall, the Syntheri Rock, with the River Kaneri flowing at its base is found deep inside the Dandeli Sanctuary.

The colossal monolith of granite is flanked by natural caves – shaped by the waters of the Kaneri – and a terraced waterfall.

The picturesque spot at the foot of the falls is a lovely picnic spot.

As you head down to the Rock, you will see displays of rock and minerals common to the region.

Ahead, veering up like a sheer cliff that towers over you, you can see the white-black visage of the Syntheri Rock.

The spot is ideal for anyone interested in geology and birdwatching.

You could even enjoy guided rappelling here at the Rock.

YANA

Yana houses beauty of a different kind.

The Yana rocks – Bhairaveshwara Shikhara and Mohini Shikhara – are twin rock faces high up in the lush evergreen forests of the Sahyadri Hills.

A cave temple dedicated to Siva is situated between the two rocks.

A major pilgrim centre, Yana is around 25 km from Kumta and 40 km from Sirsi, and is a lovely destination for pilgrims, trekkers, and nature-lovers alike.

A 30-minute trek will take you to the rock faces; one moment you’re on a tree-shaded trail and the next, looming tall ahead of you are the twin rocks.

SAHASRA LINGA

A pilgrimage site located in the charming Sirsi district of Uttara Kannada, Sahasralinga (‘Thousand Lingas’) lies in the middle of the River Shalmala in a beautiful valley.

It is a uniquely spectacular place for the incredible number of ancient lingas and Nandi bulls carved on the riverine rocks of the Shalmala.

A linga, in Hindu mythology, is a symbol of Siva representing divine energy; Nandi the bull is the vehicle of Siva and is always seen placed in front of the linga in temples and shrines.

At Sahasralinga, the lingas can be seen even better when the waters ebb.

Thousands of pilgrims and visitors come here every year on the occasion of the glorious Mahashivaratri festival.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

S N RAI

With over 25 years of experience, primarily in Sales, S N RAI currently combines Operations & Sales, specialising in the European market.

Rai has also been strongly involved in Product Development for Go India Journeys.

Off work, he loves music, cricket, and driving on long road journeys.

You can connect with him at snrai@goindia.co.in.