IN THE WATERS OF GOD’S OWN COUNTRY

*Water is fluid, soft and yielding. But water will wear away rock, which is rigid and cannot yield. As a rule, whatever is fluid, soft and yielding will overcome whatever is rigid and hard. This is another paradox: what is soft is strong.

–Lau Tzu

Vallam Kalli 

Many festivals in Kerala are closely connected to nature and have largely evolved according to the geographical and climatic conditions of the state. A beautiful example of this is vallam kalli (boat race), the famed water festival of Kerala.

Vallam kalli is one of the most distinctive traditions of Kerala. A variety of paddled longboats are used in vallam kalli but it is the long, dark, graceful snake boat called chundan vallam that has become iconic of the sport. The snake boat is so called because its exceedingly long hull and large raised stern resemble the raised hood of a cobra. Snake boats extend up to a 100 feet and the larger ones can easily support a hundred people. The boats are decorated with colourful silken umbrellas; the number of umbrellas signifies the affluence of the family to which the boat belongs 

Vallam kalli boats are no ordinary boats but, they have fixed measurements and structures and are crafted under the guidance of skilled craftsmen. The other types of paddled longboats used in the sport are churulan vallam, iruttukuthy vallam, odi vallam, kochu vallam, vadakkanody vallam, and veppu vallam etc. 

Kerala’s expansive backwaters and beautiful rivers serve as the perfect venue for vallam kalli which is organised during special occasions such as Onam and temple festivals, and is a major tourist attraction. 

Preparations for vallam kalli, in which teams from different parts of the region participate, begin much in advance. A day before the race, elaborate prayers, in which Lord Vishnu and Mahabali are paid tribute to, are performed. Apart from the oarsmen, there are singers on board; their music sets the pace for the rowers. 

The boat races held at Karuvatta, Payippad, Aranmula, and Kottayam are some of the star attractions of Onam. 

It is however the race that takes place at Aranmula, a heritage village (famed for its traditional metal-alloy handcrafted mirrors) that lies on the banks of the River Pamba in Pathanamthitta district, during the Uthrittaathi asterism of Onam that is one of the most magnificent of the various boat racing events in the state. 

The Aranmula Boat Race is the oldest river boat fiesta in Kerala. It takes place near the ancient Sree Parthasarathy Temple dedicated to Lord Krishna. 

Palliyodams are Aranmula’s unique snake boats. Devotees hold the palliyodam in reverence, considering it the divine vessel of the presiding deity in the temple. Each palliyodam usually has four helmsmen, rowers, and singers. The oarsmen sing traditional boat songs and wear white mundu (traditional white sarong-like garment) and turbans. The golden lace at the head of the boat, the flag, and the ornamental umbrellas in the centre make it a show of pageantry too. 

Devotion, music, and the sheer artistry and grandeur of the palliyodams make it a truly marvellous experience for spectators. 

In Kerala’s lush Kuttanadu region, land of lakes and rivers, snake boat racing has acquired cult status. The sleek and graceful snake boats are the pride of every village and dominate the landscape during the months of August and September, when 20 minor and major regattas are held. The major attraction of the boat race here though is the competition of snake boats. 

The water festival in Kuttanad is unique. No other country in the world has such festivities. For this is the largest team sport in the world. It was launched 500 years ago with the Champakulam Race, which too is still held out of Alappuzha, shortly before Onam. 

The Nehru Trophy Boat Race, named after Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of independent India, is conducted on the Punnamada Lake near Alappuzha in Kuttanad, in August every year. On the day of this fiercely fought boat race, And the serene lake front is transformed into a sea of humanity as lakhs of people, including tourists from abroad, gather here to witness the phenomenal event. For the people of each village in Kuttanad, a victory at this race for their village boat is something to be celebrated for months to come. 

The snake boats line up in full caparisoned glory to compete for the trophy. Before the race, ceremonial water processions with stunning floats take place. Large lines of men wield their oars to the frenzied rhythm of drums and cymbals as thousands throng the banks to cheer and watch the breathtaking show of muscle power, rowing skills, and rapid pace. The snake boats – all pitted against their own kind – rip through the glorious backwaters of Kerala in a tussle of speed. This traditional village rivalry on watercraft is reminiscent of ancient naval warfare 

And while the snake boat is king for the day, smaller country craft will compete too, as the very air reverberates with the vanchipaattu (lit. ‘boatsong’) and the oarsmen move the oars in circular form to its rhythm.