WILD AND GORGE-OUS!

THE SATKOSIA GORGE SANCTUARY & TIGER RESERVE, ODISHA

On its ceaseless course toward the Bay of Bengal on India’s south-eastern coast, the mighty River Mahanadi crashes through the hills of Central Odisha, carving a spectacular 22-kilometre-long crevasse – the Satkosia Gorge – before it emerges into the coastal plains.

A sanctuary that is also a gorge, Satkosia derives its name from the words sat meaning seven and kos meaning two miles, indicating the length of the gorge as 14 miles or 22 km.

The Mahanadi cuts across the magnificently wooded mountains of the Eastern Ghats, lying to the south of the gorge, which in turn meet the Chhota Nagpur Plateau to the north, creating a biotic province of rare beauty, diversity, and immense geomorphological distinction.

The gorge has the appearance of a place where time stands still, but don’t be deceived. For there is danger lurking in the form of crocodiles!

The forests that clothe both banks of the Mahanadi are a stronghold for elephants, gaur, leopards, sambar, chital, barking deer, mouse deer, chousingha, sloth bears, wild pigs, langurs, porcupines, pangolins, and dhole or wild dog packs. And, of course, one of Odisha’s remaining tiger populations. This is also the southernmost range of the highly endangered long-snouted gharial; as well as home to the mugger or marsh crocodile that fishes in the crystal waters of the Mahanadi. Reptile fauna include the king cobra, banded krait, python, gecko, freshwater turtle, terrapin, and others.

The gorgeous sal forests, mixed with luxuriant bamboo, teak, and fruiting trees, form a dense green canopy here and harbour splendid birdlife – both resident and migratory – including Alexandrine, Rose-ringed and Plum-headed Parakeets, lorikeets, Verditer, Monarch, Fantail and other flycatchers, nuthatches, mynahs, tits, Crested Serpent Eagles, Black-headed Bulbuls, and Brown-cheeked Fulvetta. The forests are also a good place to sight giant and flying squirrels.

The Satkosia Tiger Reserve, located in Angul, came about in 2007 by merging two adjoining wildlife sanctuaries that had been notified decades earlier – the Satkosia Gorge Sanctuary in 1976 and the Baisipalli Sanctuary in 1981. With a total area of 795.59 sq. km, the Satkosia Gorge Sanctuary itself spreads over four districts – Angul, Cuttack, Nayagarh, and Boudh.

Satkosia is not only a unique ‘gorge ecosystem’ but also a vital elephant habitat. The Satkosia-Baisipalli belt, together with adjoining Reserve Forests, was declared the Mahanadi Elephant Reserve and harbours hundreds of majestic pachyderms. The entire Satkosia reserve region has an area of 963.87 sq. km, with 523.61 sq. km as core area.

Several picturesque sites have been identified for trekkers, nature lovers, and visitors, of which Tikarapada, Chhotakei, Purunakote, and Badamul are especially important. Tikarapada, apart from offering stunning views of the Satkosia Gorge, is famous for the Gharial Research and Conservation Unit, established in 1975, from where gharials have been successfully bred and released into the wild. Tikarapada also offers a host of ecotourism activities, including nature trails and overnight camping experiences. Strategically located watchtowers and salt licks also help tourists spot animals in these forests.

The Mahanadi River Cruise is an especially delightful experience, given not only the majesty of the Satkosia Gorge but also the wondrous sights on either side of the river – crocodiles, still as rocks, basking in the sun on the sandbanks; wild animals on the riverbanks; rare and endangered aquatic birds; a variety of amphibians and reptiles; and, of course, the beautiful waters of the Mahanadi.

Angul, the nearest major town to the Satkosia Gorge Tiger Reserve, is well connected to Odisha’s capital, Bhubaneswar, by rail and road. Summer is the best time for animal sightings, despite soaring temperatures and incredible humidity. Winter is pleasant, with occasional rains. Satkosia’s marvellous riverine location is best enjoyed by staying onsite and exploring at ease.

The location of Satkosia’s rich forests – in the very heart of Odisha – makes it an extremely vital biodiversity and biogeographic vault, with direct or indirect corridors linking it to almost every other major forest patch in the state. It is these gloriously dense and biodiversity-rich forests that feed the Mahanadi, transforming it into the pulsating heart of India’s wilderness.

Protecting the forests, river, and wildlife of Satkosia means protecting not only the bounteous treasures of Odisha but also the very future of India.