JOURNEY TO THE SECRET KINGDOM – UPPER MUSTANG

If you want to take the path less travelled and experience an unexpected yet fascinating side of Nepal, Upper Mustang is the perfect destination. The journey may make a little dent in your pocket, but it will be well worth it.

To most outsiders, the mention of Nepal conjures up images of snow-capped mountains, lush green hills and valleys, and raging rapids. However, tucked away behind the Himalayas, is a part of Nepal that is completely different from the rest of the country – a mystical, almost mythical land that has carefully preserved its centuries-old way of life.

WELCOME TO UPPER MUSTANG

“Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us or we find it not.” – Henry David Thoreau

Upper Mustang is a place of stark and sublime beauty. Trekking here can be both arduous and daunting but, it is a rare privilege, worth every bit of your time and energy for the pristine landscape, the spiritual energy, and the hardy, vigorous culture of its true mountain people.

This spectacular hidden destination, with its arid desert valleys, sandstone cliffs, eroded canyons, and primal terrain, is one of the most protected, undisturbed, and preserved regions in the world.

Geographically, Upper Mustang lies on the edge of the Tibetan plateau, cut off from the rest of the world.

The district of Mustang, also called Lo, was a separate kingdom within the boundaries of Nepal until 1950. A remote, restricted area, it was only in 1992 that Upper Mustang was finally opened to foreigners.

To this day, only a limited number of travellers are allowed to enter the region every year, which explains why it is one of the last bastions of pure Tibetan Buddhist heritage.

Once part of greater Tibet and its kingdom, Upper Mustang remains suffused with Tibetan culture and religion. It is a treasure trove of Tibetan Buddhist art, frescoes, tantric mandalas (a spiritual symbol in Buddhism representative of the universe), rare and ancient manuscripts, sacred books written in gold, gorgeous silk thangkas (Tibetan Buddhist paintings on cotton or silk appliqué) and statues in bronze or copper.

THE WALLED CITY OF LO-MANTHANG

Mustang’s big draw is the fabled walled city of Lo-Manthang – the ancient capital of Lo – considered by some scholars to be the best preserved medieval fortress in the world.

It can be reached after trekking for four to five days from Kagbeni. Enclosed within the six-metre tall white-washed walls of the city are narrow alleyways, long walls of prayer wheels, and chortens (stupas / Buddhist monuments).

Mustang’s royals continue to live here. The palace of the erstwhile king of Mustang, and the Champa, Thugchen, and Chyodi gompas (monasteries) lie in the heart of the city.

The chortens, walls, and monasteries are all painted in the colours of the land – grey, ochre, and red.

TREKKING IN UPPER MUSTANG

Upper Mustang lies in the rain shadow of the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna mountains, making it, therefore, one of the few places in Nepal suitable for trekking even during the monsoon season.

Upper Mustang offers some magnificent trek trails, luring you with the promise of adventure and rewarding you with astounding sights.

Trekking in Upper Mustang should be arranged by a trekking agency and requires a minimum of two trekkers. Trekkers must obtain special trekking permits (which cost US$500 per person for 10 days) and should be accompanied by an officer appointed by the local administration.

The Upper Mustang trek begins and ends at Kagbeni village, which is a three to four hour walk from Jomsom, the headquarters of Mustang district. Reaching Jomsom should be easy as it is connected to Pokhara by daily flights.

The trek is not particularly difficult and the trail follows the ancient salt caravan route between Tibet and India.

The route takes you on a high altitude trail across a lunar landscape carved by the wild waters of the River Kali Gandaki – sometimes much above it in 4,000-metre mountain passes, sometimes down through marvellously sculpted gorges.

However, it can be strenuous as the trail constantly dips and climbs over the ridges. Along the way, stunning vistas set against the backdrop of the Himalayas will unfold before you.

Pass through white-washed isolated villages, meet local families for a meaningful cultural exchange, discover incredible cultural diversity, see colourful Buddhist shrines and monasteries, and simply absorb the deep quietude and near-magical views of sky and mountain.

THE MYSTERIOUS CAVE DWELLINGS

High up in the narrow cliffs, is an incredibly surreal sight – the colourful rock formations show off rows of thousands of man-made cave dwellings dug centuries ago.

One of the most amazing caves is the Chhoser cave that has more than 50 individual rooms! You can enter the caves accompanied by a domestic guide after purchasing a ticket.

FESTIVALS OF UPPER MUSTANG

Upper Mustang hosts quite a few festivals and religious ceremonies.

TIJI FESTIVAL

The most important festival here is Tiji. An annual three-day festival indigenous to Lo-Manthang, Tiji is held with Tibetan rituals that celebrate the myth of a son believed to have saved the kingdom of Mustang from destruction.

YARTUNG FESTIVAL

Yartung is another major festival where local men and women adorn themselves in traditional attire and take part in separate horse races.

If your trek happens to coincide with either of the festivals, stay on in the city to experience vibrant celebrations, witness monks engage in a dazzling show of traditional dance, music, and re-enactment of Buddhist legends or watch glorious equestrian displays.